 (Photo taken on SB US 95 @ MI/ES county line) |
Esmeralda County
In the Beginning...
...And still in the past
Wedged against the California State Line between Tonopah and Bishop, lightly populated Esmeralda County ("Essy"), is a testament to Nevada's never-say-die attitude. Here, pride is alive and well. Towns such as Silver Peak and Gold Point give the impression of stubborn old "has-beens", shriveled but still standing under the harsh desert sun. Simple and to the point, Essy doesn't say die. The county's charm is in its past; with a total population of less than one thousand residents, Essy hates to grow anymore -- according to one of it's residents: "It's grown too much already."
The Markers
Historical Markers of Esmeralda County (10)
~ The least populated county in Nevada!
~ Historic Goldfield Hotel... once the largest hotel west of the Mississippi
~ Goldfield, the once largest city in Nevada!
1900-1905: the name "Esmeralda" was awarded the headline for newspapers nationwide. Gold, fortune, and new beginnings in the middle of nowhere brought fortune seekers from every corner of the nation to a little town named Goldfield. Apparently, gold fever was not cured yet. History does not deny that Goldfield was once Nevada's largest and most properous city, a city of over twenty thousand people in its heyday; the city literally sat on top of rich gold veins, veins that went down in excess of half a mile beneath the surface, veins that in fact carried Nevada over into the 1930's. At the turn of the century, a tough economy loomed over the nation and Nevada was destined for bankruptcy. Talk of relinquishing Nevada's statehood was commonfare; some say if it wasn't for Goldfield, Nevada would have died a century ago. Others say the tales are hogwash, nothing more than a romantic fairy tale; some people say that Goldfield is nothing more than a town with "too many pipe dreams." Essy's residents and locals know better.
Goldfield, originally named "Grandpa" for "the grandfather of all mining camps", can easily be called one of Nevada's last true mining camps; grandpa Goldfield had enough wealth and fortune that its courthouse was adorned with twentieth-century Tiffany lamps! Some say, Goldfield had so much gold, miners could "throw it at the birds." No expense was spared on behalf of Goldfield; the Goldfield Hotel, once the largest hotel west of the Mississippi River, would have put the MGM Grand to shame; at one time, the Hotel checked more than a thousand people a day; low grade ore was used to pave the streets today's residents regularly use. By 1901, the first automobiles hummed down Crook Street. Most interesting of all, championship prize fights were a regular occurrance on the street sides; at times, an entire city block was cordoned to make room for spectators. The most famous fight of all was the Gans-Nelson Fight, which took place on the corner of Crook and Columbia Streets. Goldfield was a place where spectators, gamblers, ladies of the night, and other entrepreneurs looked for one last chance to strike it rich. For awhile, it was looking pretty good; Goldfield's ore assayed at more than $3,000/ton, an overwhelming sum that was prized quality, but lacked in quantity and feasability. Assayers and mine superintendants gravely miscalculated the ore's location, concluding that Goldfield's prized ore was too far from the surface to be viable in profit. Like many of Nevada's mining camps, Goldfield was reluctant to settle for defeat. Today, Goldfield lives on sheer pride alone; the town hangs on, sitting proudly under the desert sun as a testament to old fortunes with a never-say-die attitude. Today, Goldfield is but a mere shadow of the great town it once was, living day to day with history as a forever companion and a forever role model.
As you might expect, driving through lonely Essy County is something of the wonderful for any desert rat. For other people, Essy might mean a race to the finish line. The county, vast and lonely in all of triteness, is a blast despite the low number of services available. This seclusion is perhaps the reward for all who choose to explore Essy's grounds. Goldfield is just what you might expect in the way of services, a comfortable base with a locally owned motel and a general store with gas pump. Why such a low number of services? People who live in Goldfield drive to 'the city' for services and a little more "action." A twenty minute drive will take to 'the city' in question, Tonopah, Central Nevada's hub of activity. Although technically residing within Nye County, Tonopah regularly caters to the residents of Essy for food and services, including two large casinos equipped with a motel and restaurant, along with a handful of other services like local motels, a Scolaris grocery store, an auto repair, Nye County hospital, and a few fast food joints. Depending on your preference, Goldfield or Tonopah make excellent base jumps, providing you fill up every time you town. Trust me folks... discovering the incredible loneliness and stark beauty of Essy for yourself, is a reward that shouldn't be missed. Fortunately, conquering Essy's markers allow you the maximum experience; all of Essy's markers are not only greatly spaced apart, but they can all be attained within a day's drive. However, to get from "here and there" takes a long time. You might want to spend a few days to seek out some of Essy's old towns off the pavement, or maybe discover your own secret niche. Spend a few hours at "the Sump" and wrap your brain around landscapes so desolate, they are breathtakingly beautiful. Most of Essy's markers tell of Nevada's repetition of boom and bust, the finding of gold and silver in old mining camps, so imagine pasting yourself to this landscape in search of something that may or may not be there. Who knows -- you might just find something the locals don't know. Then again, don't count on it. Size and appearance will be deceiving.
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