 (Photo taken on EB SR 359 @ CA/NV state line) |
Mineral County
Created out of northern Esmeralda County, Mineral was named for the many mineral deposits in the area. Here in Nevada, Mineral is a pretty quiet place, lonely and stark, loving and unloving. It is a county that has seen and still sees hardship today. (More on this later) Perhaps it is this quality that Mineral has always been elusive. It makes you wonder if karma has a grudge against this neglected piece of western Nevada.
Mineral's modern history dates back to the mid 1860's, when mining was a part of most every gully, canyon, wash and flat throughout Nevada. In fact, mining has always been a part of Mineral's economy, even if the mining occured in just a few 'flash in the pan' mining camps that breathed life into its being. But it was a few camps in particular that held Mineral high. In 1863, prospectors found a ledge of silver and several veins of gold, even stranger, near the surface. The men set up camp, doing the best they could to keep their find secret and staked several claims, christening their new ground, "Aurora! Goddess of the Dawn!" As any mining story would go, it didn't take long for others to find this 'new ground' and 'the rush to Esmerelda'(sic.) was on! Aurora began its boom within a few days, when a general store was built, then a post office, several saloons and hotels. All of the excitement of Nevada's newest strike prompted the Carson & Colorado Railroad (C&C) to use Aurora as a major stop along its line to Keeler, CA. Indeed it was. So famous and so exciting was Aurora! How famous... it's said that a young Sam Clemens worked briefly as a miner, until he picked up a pen. It's said Aurora is where Sam Clemens began his life as 'Mark Twain'. How exciting... Aurora is known as the only town ever in Nevada history to be claimed by two states. Aurora, thought to be in California was quickly given the seat of Mono County. Nevada reacted immediately by naming Aurora the seat of then, Esmeralda County. As a result, Aurora was the only place ever in history to have votes count in two states. Republicans voted across the street for California, while Democrats voted for Nevada. Funny how the two got turned around. It wasn't until Von Schmidt's 1872 boundary survey officially placed Aurora four miles within Nevada, the seat for Mono cutoff but still leaving Aurora the county seat of a very remote part of Nevada. But, like every great boom, a downhill slide was inevitable... and it was devastating for Aurora. It's brick buildings stood as long as they could, until vandals snatched all of them away. It's wooden structures either scrapped or left to nature and sadly, there is nothing left of Aurora today, nothing but the lone cemetery perched hidden underneath a few pinyon pines. Aurora's main street still remains discernable, a wide strip of dirt cutting into the sagebrush.
The Mineral County of yesterday brings a bit of depression with almost every conversation. Perhaps no other county in Nevada has suffered as much bust and neglect as Mineral. The town of Rawhide, another of Nevada's most famous mining camps has been completely stripped away by a modern-day mining company, desperate to eke out microscopic gold. Even its cemetery could barely be saved, thanks to a few non-profit groups. Bit of neglect? But the story of Hawthorne strikes a cord with the Nevada of today, influencing it's neglected persona. Maybe it's because it hits so close to home, so close to heart. Hawthorne is a relatively new city, established around 1920, it sits on the edge of everything and nothing. It's streets, customs, celebrations and background stems from the military, the Navy to be exact. A few years before World War II, a U.S. Navy base in New Jersey suffered a massive explosion due to the storage of military ammunitions. Then, Pearl Harbor was struck and a demand for ammunitions rose as America went into war. The Navy NEEDED to find a remote locale to store the ammunitions, far from major population centers but still accessible to military personnel. Alas, the town of Hawthorne was re-born. Naval workers were soon transferred to Hawthorne and the town grew, once to over 10,000 people. After the end of the war, Hawthorne was sort of, as one local puts it, "kicked in the balls". America soon forgot about Hawthorne. Its base, military quarters and hardened concrete bunkers, all of which can be seen today, sit as depressing reminders of a time that was. Today, Hawthorne is definitely a sleepy town... a lonely town. The military influences everything, remnants of the Navy sit everywhere visible, the museum, its parks. Hawthorne doesn't let go, but there is one thing for certain: don't ever call them dead. Today, Hawthorne survives by scraping money from US 95's constant traffic, commuters making the drive from Reno to Vegas. It also helps that Walker Lake is nearby, only five miles to the north where native Lahontan Cutthroat attract anglers to a unique and quality fishery. Even Mineral's streak of bad luck shows through the lake, as water rights for the Walker River, the lake's only water source seems to be shifted out of favor of Mineral County. When the lake is full and healthy, Hawthorne puts on a nice smile.
The Markers
Historical Markers of Mineral County (6)
~ One of the least densily populated counties in Nevada
~ Walker Lake, ancient remnant of Lake Lahontan.
~ Hawthorne & the U.S. Naval Ammunitions Depot. Rich wartime background.
Aside from its hard times, Mineral truly is a beautiful land, a land that holds some of the best rockhounding in Nevada! Large concentrations of minerals and fossils can be found throughout the county's landscape, from gold, silver and tungsten to more table pieces like agates and jaspers, apache tears, chalcedony, turquoise and quartz, to fossils, trilobites, petrified wood and peat bog. You'd be hard pressed to find another place with more variety of natural treasures. A drive into Mineral's mountain ranges places a whole new perspective on what really is out here besides US 95. That brings me to one word of advice: Mineral County is truly a lonely land. Without beautiful Walker Lake breaking the handful of barren mountains, Mineral could be described as inhospitable. There's a reason why most people fly right on through the county to get to the next pit stop. But, we're different for a reason. Bring on the loneliness! Few spectacles are grander than seeing the White Mountains' snow capped peaks against stark desert hills and ancient lake beds. Remnants of 'flash in the pan' mining camps sit parched under a desert sun, wishing for a bit of human company. Trust me folks, see it for yourself. After all, even though conquering all six markers are quite easy, Mineral will force you from one end of its borders to the next. You might as well enjoy the starkness while you can. Your obvious base should be Hawthorne, the county's only town of significant size. With a little over 3,000 people, Hawthorne caters to your every needs, providing a grocery store, several great restaurants, the El Capitan Hotel and Casino, as well as several gas stations with auto repair and a McDonalds. Remember, Walker Lake is very near by and provides excellent camping opportunities! With these luxuries, you can conquer all of the markers in a day if you wish, or you can combine Mineral into a multi-day trip with Nye and Esmeralda. Either way, the opportunities are endless. Just remember one thing: once you leave the comfort of Hawthorne, don't expect a whole lot in terms of services. Pay your respects to the former courthouse building, slow down to 25MPH when heading through Schurz, or wave a jolly 'hello' to the folks in Mina. Hardships? Maybe, but life goes on. Welcome to Mineral County!
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