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Humboldt County
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Is it surprising that Humboldt County is named for the Humboldt River? Although it probably won't surprise many people, you might find Humboldt quite a surprise itself, especially if you've only seen it from the Interstate! The name, 'Humboldt', comes from Baron Friedrich Heinrich Alexander von Humboldt (1769-1859), named by John C. Frémont while on his exploration of 1845-1846. While the Humboldt River still plays a vital role in the life of today's Humboldt County, it's the Interstate that is the county's lifeline. Interstate 80, a concrete monster that bisects Nevada east to west connects the county with the rest of Nevada. To its residents, the Interstate is first, second and last, both a blessing and a curse. Most of Humboldt County is completely dependant on the Interstate for its primary economy and necessary link to the outside world.
In days before modern man, the county soon to become Humboldt was a true outback in the Great Basin. Perhaps those days still linger on, because getting away from Interstate 80 provides a whole new perspective on this wild county. One of the original 6 counties in Nevada, Humboldt has remained relatively unchanged for the past century, notably in the county's remote northern sector. Northwest Humboldt is perhaps the most remote place in all of Nevada, completely comprising of the remote country west of Denio that encompasses the Sheldon Antelope Wildlife Refuge and Soldier Meadows area. Humboldt still retains a few endangered riparian canyons and wetlands, some of the last remaining in the entire Great Basin Province. Ancient peoples carved messages in remote canyons, trodded on desert playas and found game in some of the most secluded places on the planet. If you can find such places, they remain my friends, open to exploration. Humboldt is also a place where you can mine for one of the rarest gemstones in the world, the Virgin Valley Fire Opal, Nevada's state gemstone and famous around the world. Certain pieces of this gemstone has been valued at over $50,000, with one particular piece on permanent display in the Smithsonian worth in excess of a hundred grand. Humboldt's remote southwest corner resides within Black Rock Country, home of that mystical piece of emptiness that to this day, still captivates its viewers. The Jackson Mountains, Quinn River drainage and Jungo Flat areas are places that still only receive a handful of visitors a year, and some places that have probably never seen modern man. At the risk of sounding like a travel brochure, I become captivated when I hear about such things, places so remote that old emigrant trails still sit as raised tracks in the sage, undisturbed and likely to remain so for centuries.
Moving eastward, Central Humboldt is the county's population center, comprising of both the Quinn River and Paradise Valleys. The US 95 corridor extends all the way up from Winnemucca, the county's seat in the southern portion of the county, to the lonely country around McDermitt and the Oregon border. Here, you'll find the Santa Rosa Range, another island of mountains and home to another source of the county's watershed. Of course, Southern Humboldt sees that pesky Interstate through and through, but some places like Golconda and Valmy still retain their down home goodness. Still, it's hard to ignore that Interstate, a driving staple, thorn in the side... a complete necessary in all things old and new. Of course, the county seat, Winnemucca, is more fastened to this monster than perhaps any other place in Nevada. The name "Winnemucca" means, 'Place by the River' and named after the great Indian Chief who lived in the area. In fact, one marker highlights the Chief's daughter, Sarah Winnemucca, a notable Nevadan who vowed for peace and co-existence between whites and her native people. Winnemucca is a significant sized city, with just about every amenity you'd need if you were a weary Interstate driver, including 2 major casinos, a handful of fast food chains and a dozen or so motels. Winnemucca has definitely grown for one purpose: to serve the Interstate. Locals however, are trying to change that image, making efforts to turn itself into a cowboy town, much like Elko or Lovelock. Even so, most people only see Winnemucca for what it is, a quick pit stop before heading elsewhere.
The Markers
Historical Markers of Humboldt County (12)
Humboldt's markers are great fun to conquer! Unfortunately, half of them sit alongside that pesky Interstate. The remainding markers send you reeling elsewhere into Humboldt's true outback, just enough markers to remind you of the desert's monotony, but not enough to leave you wanting more. This is especially true for #162, Soldier Meadows, the most remote marker in the entire system. #162 is a comfortable 42 miles south of SR 140, in the middle of absolute beautiful nothingness at Soldier Meadows and Summit Lake. (Told you there were wetlands out here!) Conquering Humboldt's markers will take you a few days, only because of this particular marker. My advice is to stay in Winnemucca and work eastward to the Lander Line. Double back and make your way up to McDermitt and spend the night under the stars. Northern Humboldt is known for some of the best stargazing in America. Camp under these stars, I dare you. Pick a spot around Disaster Peak, Duferrena Ponds or the northern Santa Rosas near the Quinn River. The thought of that Interstate soon falls away. Finally, when you're ready to tackle #162, fill up in Denio and head off into nowhere, literally. My advice is to stay at the Soldier Meadows Ranch, or spend the night camping under the stars anywhere along the Soldier Meadows Road. Providing you bring plenty of supplies, the experience is not only peaceful, but gratifying. Guaranteed solitude! Even if you've had enough solitude after this conquering, you can always book a night at the Soldier Meadows Ranch, the only form of 'services' for sixty miles to a hundred miles (depending on which way you point). Jim and his family will accommodate your every needs. After tackling the marker, keep heading south on Soldier Meadows Road to intersect with High Rock Canyon. Here, it's an easy haul to Gerlach and finally, back to civilization. Kudos to the SHPO for erecting #162 at such a great locale. It's a definite change from any of the other markers in the system and finally forces all city folk to get off that pavement and enjoy, the REAL NEVADA. Now... where's that Interstate again?
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