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Historical Markers of Humboldt County (12)
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The name "Humboldt" in Nevada refers to both a river and a county. Named by John C. Frémont while on his trans-continental exploration from 1845 to 1846, the Humboldt has been called the "filthiest, muddiest stream" in all of the world -- such harsh words to call a river tha also inexplicably saved thousands of lives of westbound emigrants. Humboldt County, named in honor of Baron Friedrich Heinrich Alexander von Humboldt (1769-1859), is a quiet resident in northern Nevada, and much like its namesake river, prefers a little peace and quiet to go with that ambiguity. The Humboldt River as it probably has been for thousands of years, still plays a vital role in the life of today's Humboldt County, but it Interstate 80 that many believe brings life to this area of the Silver State.
Interstate 80, a concrete monster that bisects Nevada east to west, connects Humboldt County with the rest of Nevada. However, many residents see the interstate as both a blessing and a curse to their land. The interstate is first in importance, twenty-fours a day -- a necessary chain that links every piece of Humboldt life together. The freeway also brings economy, fresh blood, and fresh opportunities in the unlikeliest of times. However, to the whims of the average Nevadan, Interstate 80 is Humboldt County.
Grand Humboldt: North
Before the days of modern man, the county that came to be known as Humboldt was a true outback in the Great Basin. In such days, the idea of a linking piece of concrete was far-fetched and might even be deemed unacceptable as a curse to the land. Humboldt was an unexplored ground with miles of vastness and mountain oases, a place suitable for isolated habitation. Such is still true even in today's Humboldt County. Still, such perspectives are hard to obtain when man is stuck on confining lines of concrete. Therefore, people who linger away from the interstate should consider themselves fortunate - for they are wandering a land relatively unchanged from the days of our ancestors. Arguable, there is no other place in Nevada more remote than northwest Humboldt County, a land that comprises every song of simplicity the earth affords. This remote country is roughly contained within a circle west of Denio, encompassing the Sheldon Antelope Wildlife Refuge, Duferrena Wetlands, Summit Lake, and Soldier Meadows. Northern Humboldt retains endangered riparian canyons and wetlands that are some of the last remaining untouched wildlands in the entire Great Basin Province. Places like the Jackson Mountains, the Santa Rosa Range, Bilk Creek and Quinn River drainages were home to thousands of native peoples who trodded on desert playas and trekked steadily into isolated mountain islands in search of game. People today can mine for a famous gemstone as their ancestors probably did many centuries ago. The Virgin Valley Fire Opal, Nevada's state gemstone and one of the world's rarest gemstones is not only highly valued, but is found exclusively in the dry, ugly clay hills of northern Humboldt County. The stone's given rarity can demand a price tag of over fifty thousand dollars! In fact, one particular piece sits on permanent display in the Smithsonian worth in excess of a hundred grand. Such mysteries, hiding purposefully in ambiguity, are concepts worlds away from any yellow lined strip of intrusive concrete. Beauty indeed lies in the eye of the beholder.
Meanwhile further from the county's outback, southern Humboldt is another diamond in the rough. The Sonoma Range, for example, south of Golconda is a mini-island complete with perennial streams and snow-capped vistas; Water Canyon south of Winnemucca is a virtual oasis among the high desert lands of northern Nevada. However, it's the county's southwest corner that continues to mystify man. Just when man begins to question Nevada's true self, the Black Rock suddenly whispers in its regular, methodical whispers. The remoteness of Nevada's Black Rock country is more like a rough paradise suited for the extremist who wishes to see "everything" in the world at the same. And that he does. Here, the land is primal, sudden crescendos during summer thunderstorms, and delicate whispers in the loneliness of winter. Even then, the Black Rock is not alone. Island sanctuaries like the Jackson Mountains and the Quinn River drainage supplies life with the resources it needs to play out its symphony. Save for a handful of ranchers, and a party full of Labor Day "burners," this remote corner of Humboldt still receives only a handful of visitors per year. Old emigrant trails still demark the land as raised tracks in the sage, undisturbed and likely to remain so for centuries.
Moving eastward, Central Humboldt County is the county's population center, comprising both the Quinn River and Paradise Valleys. The corridor along US 95 extends from Winnemucca, the county's seat in the southern portion of the county, to the tiny hamlet of McDermitt, perched right on the Oregon border. The highlight of central Humboldt is the Santa Rosa Range, not just another island of mountains, but one of the county's most-dependable watersheds. Of course, that pesky has life as well. Friendly folks and tattered stories reside some places like Golconda and Valmy, young saplings that sprouted out of the sagebrush and rooted to the interstate.
What's a "Winnemucca?"
Perhaps no other place in Humboldt is more fastened to I-80 than Winnemucca, Humboldt's county seat. The name "Winnemucca" literally means, "Place by the River", named after the great Indian Chief Winnemucca who lived in the area. Sarah Winnemucca, the chief's daughter, was an author and a spokesperson who vowed for peace and co-existence between whites and her native people, the Paiutes. None of this has been forgotten because Winnemucca's name lives forever as a notable mini-city. Winnemucca's year-round population of eight thousand has just about every amenity a visitor might need if they were a weary interstate driver. Winnemucca's two major casinos and a dozen or so motels and restaurants insures its people have services twenty four hours a day. A visit to Winnemucca will undoubtedly highlight its reason for being: to serve the interstate. However, locals are trying to change the image of Winnemucca, making efforts to turn the town into a cowboy "hotspot", much like Elko or Lovelock. Even so, most people will probably see Winnemucca only for what it is -- a quick pit stop before heading to Reno or Salt Lake City. Yes, it's still hard to ignore I-80, a thorn in one's side yet a complete necessity in all things old and new in Humboldt County.
The Markers
Let's take a few moments and forget about that pesky interstate. With your new fresh state of mind, imagine a paradise that belongs to you and only you. You are your only company in a land vast and testing. This is what you can expect on your conquering of Humboldt County. Humboldt's markers will send you spiraling outward into the county's true outback. #162, Camp McGarry lies a comfortable three hours from Winnemucca near Summit Lake at present-day Soldier Meadows. With your one free hand, find an atlas of Nevada and pinpoint this location. Sorry folks... no pavement here for close to a hundred miles. As such, I recommend a minimum of three days to successfully conquer Humboldt's markers, not only because of #162 but to allow yourself the true experience of Humboldt's hidden niches. My advice is to stay in Winnemucca and work eastward to the Lander line. Double back and make your way up to McDermitt and spend the night just outside of town, preferably under the stars. Pick a camp near Disaster Peak, Duferrena Ponds, or the northern Santa Rosas near the East Fork Quinn River. The thought of that interstate will soon fall away. When it's finally time to tackle #162, fill up in Denio and head off into that beautiful nowhere! Providing you bring plenty of supplies, the experience is not only gratifying, but downright magical with near-guaranteed solitude. If camping doesn't interest you can always book a night at the Soldier Meadows Guest Ranch - the only form of services for sixty to a hundred miles (depending on which way you point). As a guest, you can wake up to a fresh-cooked meal with hot showers and a warm, comfortable bed or cot, depending on their preference. For things to do, Jim and his boys will be glad to give you a few ideas and reveal a few hidden secrets of the area. Of course, #162 awaits your conquering. Fortunately, the marker is very close to the ranch, ending your conquering of Humboldt County with a bang!
When you've had your fill of Soldier Meadows, you can reach civilization by heading south on Soldier Meadows Road to intersect with the road to High Rock Canyon (well-marked). From here, Gerlach is an easy half hour away. I must give many kudos to the SHPO for erecting #162 at such a great locale -- #162 is a nice change from any of the other markers, finally forcing city folk to get off that pavement and enjoy the real Nevada. Now... where's that interstate again?
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