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Humboldt County
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The name 'Humboldt', the river and county, were named in honor of Baron Friedrich Heinrich Alexander von Humboldt (1769-1859), named by John C. Frémont while on his trans-continental exploration from 1845 to 1846. Therefore, would it be surprising to learn that Humboldt County is named for the Humboldt River? This important waterway still plays a vital role in the life of today's Humboldt County; however, Interstate 80 is the real lifeline for Humboldt County. Interstate 80, a concrete monster that bisects Nevada east to west, connects Humboldt County with the rest of Nevada. Not surprising that most people have only seen the county from the interstate. To Humboldt's residents, the Interstate represents both a blessing and a curse. The interstate is first in importance, twenty-fours a day -- a necessary chain that links every piece of Humboldt life together. To Humboldt, the interstate is their link to the outside world.
Grand Humboldt: North
Grand Humboldt: Continued
What's a "Winnemucca?"
The Markers
Historical Markers of Humboldt County (12)
Before the days of modern man, the county that came to be known as Humboldt was a true outback in the Great Basin; in such days, Humboldt was an unexplored ground with miles of vastness and mountain oases, a place suitable for isolated habitation. Such is still true in today's Humboldt County, but putting such visions into perspective is hard to obtain, when man is stuck on a confining line of concrete. Any man to linger away from the interstate gains a deeper understanding of this very wild place. Fortunately, Humboldt has remained relatively unchanged for the past 160 years, most noticeably, in the county's remote northern sector. Perhaps no other place in Nevada remains more remote than northwest Humboldt County; this land comprises the quiet country west of Denio, encompassing the Sheldon Antelope Wildlife Refuge, Duferrena Wetlands, Summit Lake, and Soldier Meadows; Humboldt retains endangered riparian canyons and wetlands, some of the last such remaining places in the entire Great Basin Province. Places like the Jackson Mountains, Santa Rosa Range, Bilk Creek and Quinn River housed peoples who carved messages for us to interpret; men trodded on desert playas and found game in some of the most secluded places on the planet. Humboldt is also a place where you can mine for one of the rarest gemstones in the world: the Virgin Valley Fire Opal. Not only is the Fire Opal Nevada's state gemstone, it is known famously around the world, highly valued and found exclusively in the dry, ugly clay hills of northern Humboldt County; the stone's given rarity can demand a price tag of over fifty thousand dollars! In fact, one particular piece sits on permanent display in the Smithsonian worth in excess of a hundred grand.
Meanwhile further from the county's outback, southern Humboldt remains relatively quiet. The Sonoma Range south of Golconda is a mini-island complete with perennial streams; Water Canyon south of Winnemucca is another beautiful spot, perfect for biking, taking a walk, or simply splendoring in the hidden beauty Humboldt County offers to the willing visitor. However, it's the county's southwest corner that continues to mystify man; the remoteness of Nevada's Black Rock country needs little introduction; places like the Jackson Mountains, the Quinn River drainage, and Jungo Flat still receives only a handful of visitors in a year; save for a few ranchers, southwest Humboldt rarely sees modern man. At the risk of sounding like a travel brochure, I become captivated when I hear about places so utterly, and beautifully remote that old emigrant trails still sit as raised tracks in the sage, undisturbed and likely to remain so for centuries.
Moving eastward, Central Humboldt County is the county's population center, comprising both the Quinn River and Paradise Valleys. The corridor along US 95 extends from Winnemucca, the county's seat in the southern portion of the county, to the tiny hamlet of McDermitt, perched right on the Oregon border. The highlight of central Humboldt must be the Santa Rosa Range, not just another island of mountains, but one of the county's most-dependable watersheds. Although located along that pesky interstate, some places like Golconda and Valmy still retain their down home goodness -- still, it's hard to ignore I-80, a thorn in the side and complete necessity in all things old and new in Humboldt County.
Perhaps no other place in Humboldt is more fastened to I-80 than Winnemucca, Humboldt's county seat. The name "Winnemucca" literally means, 'Place by the River', named after the great Indian Chief Winnemucca who lived in the area. Sarah Winnemucca, the chief's daughter, was an author and a spokesperson who vowed for peace and co-existence between whites and her native people, the Paiutes. None of this has been forgotten because Winnemucca's name lives forever as a notable mini-city. Winnemucca's year-round population of eight thousand has just about every amenity a visitor might need if they were a weary interstate driver. Winnemucca's two major casinos and a dozen or so motels and restaurants insures its people have services twenty four hours a day. A visit to Winnemucca will undoubtedly highlight its reason for being: to serve the interstate. However, locals are trying to change the image of Winnemucca, making efforts to turn the town into a cowboy "hotspot", much like Elko or Lovelock. Even so, most people will probably see Winnemucca only for what it is -- a quick pit stop before heading to Reno or Salt Lake City.
Although half of Humboldt's markers sit alongside pesky Interstate 80, its markers are still fun to conquer! Humboldt's markers will send the visitor spiraling outward into Humboldt County's true outback. #162, Soldier Meadows, may be the most remote marker in the entire system. #162 lies a comfortable forty two miles south of SR 140, in the middle of absolute nowhere near Summit Lake. I recommend a minimum of three days to successfully conquer Humboldt's markers, not only because of #162 but to deprive yourself of experiencing Humboldt's hidden niches. My advice is to stay in Winnemucca and work eastward to the Lander Line. Double back and make your way up to McDermitt and spend the night just outside of town and under the stars. Northern Humboldt County is known for some of the best stargazing in America. Pick a spot near Disaster Peak, Duferrena Ponds or the northern Santa Rosas near the Quinn River. The thought of that interstate will soon fall away. Finally, when you are ready to tackle #162, fill up in Denio and head off into nowhere. From then on, you can either spend the night at Soldier Meadows Ranch, or camp anywhere along the Soldier Meadows Road. Providing you bring plenty of supplies, the experience is not only gratifying, but downright magical with almost guaranteed solitude. If camping doesn't interest you can always book a night at the Soldier Meadows Ranch, the only form of 'services' for sixty miles to a hundred miles (depending on which way you point). Jim and his family do a fantastic job accommodating their guests; wake up to a fresh-cooked meal, with hot showers and a warm, comfortable bed or cot, depending on your preference. For things to do, Jim and his boys will be glad to give you a few ideas and hidden secrets of the area. Of course, #162 awaits your conquering. Fortunately, the marker is very close to the ranch, ending your conquering of Humboldt County with a bang! When you've had your fill of Soldier Meadows, you can reach civilization by heading south on Soldier Meadows Road to intersect with the road to High Rock Canyon (well-marked). From here, Gerlach is an easy half hour away. I must give many kudos to the SHPO for erecting #162 at such a great locale -- #162 is a nice change from any of the other markers, finally forcing city folk to get off that pavement and enjoy the real Nevada. Now... where's that interstate again?
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